How to Upgrade the RAM in Your Laptop or Desktop

Your computer freezes for a moment every time you switch apps. Chrome reloads tabs you opened 10 minutes ago. Video calls stutter when a spreadsheet is open. If that sounds familiar, you may be running out of memory, and adding RAM is one of the cheapest, quickest hardware fixes there is.

The catch: not every computer can be upgraded, and buying the wrong module is easy. This guide walks through checking whether you need more RAM, confirming compatibility, choosing modules and installing them safely in a laptop or desktop.

Step 1: Confirm you actually need more RAM

More memory only helps if memory is the bottleneck. Before you spend anything:

• On Windows: Press Ctrl+Shift+Esc to open Task Manager, select Performance, then Memory. Do your normal work and watch the “In use” figure. If it regularly sits above about 85 to 90% and the computer slows down, more RAM will help.
• On a Mac: Open Activity Monitor and choose the Memory tab. A memory pressure graph that’s often yellow or red points to a shortage.

If memory use is comfortable but the computer is still sluggish, the problem is more likely a slow hard drive, background apps or an aging processor. Our guide on how to speed up a slow computer covers those fixes, and how much RAM do I need helps you pick a target amount.

Step 2: Check whether your memory can be upgraded

This is the step that saves you from buying parts you can’t use.

• Most desktops have 2 or 4 memory slots and are easy to upgrade.
• Many laptops have 1 or 2 SO-DIMM slots under a bottom panel. But a growing number of thin laptops have memory soldered to the motherboard, which can’t be replaced. Some have a mix: soldered memory plus 1 open slot.
• Macs with Apple silicon (M1 and later) have memory built into the chip package. It can’t be upgraded after purchase, so choose capacity when you buy.
• Some newer laptops use CAMM2 modules, a thin replaceable format standardized by JEDEC in late 2023. These need CAMM2 modules specifically.

Your best source is the manufacturer’s manual or specifications page for your exact model. Search “[your model] service manual” or “[your model] memory specifications”. Look for the number of slots, whether memory is soldered, the maximum supported capacity and supported speeds.

Key takeaway: Check the manual before you buy anything. If the memory is soldered, no module will fit, and the only path to more RAM is a different computer.

Step 3: Identify the exact type of memory you need

You need to match 4 things.

In Windows Task Manager’s Memory view, you’ll also see “Slots used”, for example “2 of 2”. If every slot is full, you’ll need to replace existing modules with larger ones rather than add to them.

Memory makers offer compatibility tools that do this work for you. Crucial’s System Scanner, for instance, scans a Windows PC and lists compatible upgrades, and its Advisor tool lets you look up a system by make and model. Kingston and other module makers offer similar lookups.

A note on generations: DDR4 and DDR5 modules have the notch in different places, so the wrong type won’t physically fit. If you’re unsure which you have, our DDR4 vs DDR5 guide explains the differences.

Step 4: Buy the right modules

A few rules will get you the best result:

• Buy in matched pairs. Most computers run memory in dual-channel mode, which roughly doubles memory bandwidth compared with a single module. Two 8 GB sticks usually beat one 16 GB stick in performance.
• Replace rather than mix where possible. Mixing brands, speeds or sizes often works, but the system will run everything at the slowest module’s speed and timings, and mismatched sets are more likely to cause instability. A fresh matched kit avoids the guesswork.
• Don’t overbuy speed. Faster memory than your processor or laptop supports will simply run at the supported speed. On desktops, high-speed kits rely on XMP (Intel) or EXPO (AMD) profiles you enable in the BIOS.
• Check the qualified memory list. Desktop motherboard makers publish tested kits on the board’s support page. It’s worth a look for high-capacity or high-speed kits.
• Buy from a reputable seller. Counterfeit and relabeled memory exists. Stick to the module maker, major retailers or your computer’s manufacturer.

Tools and prep checklist

Step 5: Install RAM in a desktop

1. Back up, shut down and unplug. Turn the PC off fully, switch off the power supply, unplug the power cord, then press the power button for a few seconds to drain leftover power.
2. Ground yourself. Touch an unpainted metal part of the case or wear an anti-static wrist strap. Static you can’t even feel can damage memory.
3. Open the side panel and find the memory slots next to the CPU cooler.
4. Check slot order. With 2 sticks in a 4-slot board, the manual usually tells you to use slots A2 and B2 (often the second and fourth from the CPU). Using the wrong pair can leave you in single-channel mode.
5. Open the latches at the ends of the slot. Remove any old modules by pressing the latches outward.
6. Line up the notch on the module with the key in the slot. Handle modules by the edges, not the chips or gold contacts.
7. Press down firmly and evenly on both ends until the latches click into place. It takes more force than most people expect.
8. Close the case, reconnect power and turn it on.

Step 6: Install RAM in a laptop

1. Back up, shut down and unplug the charger. Don’t just put the laptop to sleep.
2. Follow the manual for battery safety. Many laptops have an internal battery, and the service manual may tell you to disconnect it before working inside. Do what the manual says for your model.
3. Remove the bottom panel. Take out all screws (some hide under rubber feet) and gently pry around the edge with a plastic tool.
4. Ground yourself by touching an unpainted metal part of the frame.
5. Release the old module by spreading the small metal clips on each side. It will pop up at an angle.
6. Insert the new module at about a 30-degree angle, notch aligned, pushing firmly into the slot.
7. Press it down until the side clips snap into place.
8. Reattach the panel, reconnect the charger and power on.

Step 7: Check that it worked

• The first boot may take longer than usual, sometimes with a black screen for a minute or more, while the system trains the new memory. This is especially common with DDR5. Give it time before assuming something is wrong.
• Confirm the total. In Windows, check Task Manager’s Memory view or Settings > System > About. On Intel Macs with upgradeable memory, use About This Mac.
• Enable XMP or EXPO in the BIOS on desktops if you bought a faster kit, then confirm the speed in Task Manager.
• Test stability. Run Windows Memory Diagnostic (search for it in the Start menu) or use your computer maker’s built-in hardware diagnostics.

If it doesn’t boot or shows less memory than expected, power down and reseat each module firmly. Try one module at a time to find a faulty stick, and check that you used the correct slots. Updating the BIOS can also fix recognition issues with newer high-capacity modules.

Conclusion

Upgrading RAM takes about 15 minutes once you have the right parts, and the right parts come from checking your manual first. Confirm memory is the bottleneck, verify the slot count and memory type, buy a matched kit, and install with static precautions. If your laptop’s memory turns out to be soldered, put that budget toward a faster drive with our NVMe vs SATA guide, or toward your next machine with how to choose a laptop. Building a new desktop instead? See how to build a PC.

Sources

• Crucial: Compatibility tools (System Scanner and Advisor) — how memory compatibility lookups work
• Kingston: How to upgrade your PC with RAM — slot selection and module handling
• Dell: How to replace memory in a Dell desktop — power drain, ESD precautions and seating modules
• JEDEC: DDR5 standard announcement — DDR5 design and differences from DDR4
• JEDEC: CAMM2 memory module standard — CAMM2 replaceable modules for laptops